Words [Potato and Aged Cheddar Perogies]

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I don’t actually use the word “perogie”. That’s an anglicized Polish word. I guess the Polish were the first to mass market the dumplings of Eastern Europe.

Ukrainians call their dumplings “varenyky”. But, it my family, we have still a different word. We call our dumplings “pedaheh”.

The weird stares we get when we say this have pushed us to search high and low for some origins of the word. All roads go back to my grandpa, who swears this is what his parents always called them.

I think our word is from an old regional dialect of rural northwestern Ukraine. What do you think?

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At Christmas time I touched on the stiffness of Eastern European doughs. I’ll go back to that today because pedaheh dough is as stiff as they come.

I have two tips for dealing with them. First, pin the dough to the edge of the counter with your hip as you roll forward. This will help stretch the dough. Second, once you get your dough to 1/4-inch thick, stop flipping it. The dough will gain some traction on the countertop, making it easier to roll super thin.

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Pedaheh

For the dough:
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup melted butter, cooled
1 egg
1/2 cup sour cream

Combine flour and salt. Mix together melted butter, egg and sour cream. Create a small well in the middle of the flour and stir in the wet mixture using your fingers. On a lightly floured work surface, knead the dough until smooth and elastic. Refrigerate 30 minutes, or overnight. Bring to room temperature before rolling.

For the filling and assembly:
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes
3 tbsp. butter
5 1/2 tbsp. sour cream
1 1/2 tsp. salt
2/3 tsp. black pepper, ground
2/3 cup aged cheddar, shredded
glass of water
butter for frying
pot of salted, boiling water

Boil the potatoes with their skins on in salted water until soft. When cool enough to handle, skin the potatoes. Add the rest of the ingredients and mash until smooth. Allow to cool completely before assembling the dumplings.
Roll dough 1/8-inch-thick. Cut into circles 5 inches in diameter. Place 1 to 2 tablespoons of filling in the centre of each circle. Do not overfill. Dip your finger in the water. Run it along the outer edge of half of the circle. Pick up the circle. Pinch together the edges of dough at the centre of the dumpling. Keep pinching down to each end to close the dumpling completely. Place under a clean towel while you complete the rest of the dumplings.
Boil the dumplings in batches until they float to the surface. Make sure to push them around the pot every now and then to ensure they don’t stick to each other or to the pot. Gently remove with a slotted spoon.
Meanwhile, heat a large pan over medium-low heat. Melt butter in it. Fry dumplings until they reach your desired golden brown on each side. You will notice that if you like your dumplings very brown, they may start to split along the pinched seam. Not to worry about this.
Serve with caramelized onions, fried sauerkraut, minced chives and sour cream.
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